Lustau Red Vermouth

Lustau Red Vermouth isn’t quite the normal sweet vermouth you might be expected.  Made in Spain, it starts with grapes that would be more at home with sherry.  The result is a nutty, sweet vermouth that has a ton of personality, but doesn’t quite function exactly as you’d expect.  In fact, the story of how I ended up with a bottle is a little bit similar.  Delightful, but not quite what I was expecting.

You Can’t Always Get What You Want…

Coming back from Albany, NY, I had picked up a bottle of Cocchi di Torino Sweet Vermouth.   Being delicious in Manhattans, I happened to finish the bottle, and sadly had neglected to purchase another.  So one night in February on a drive home from the supermarket we stopped at a local wine shop I had enjoyed success with back when I ran First Pour Wine.  What followed was an interesting insight into the occasional division between wine and liquor, and why you shouldn’t drink and run a wine shop at the same time.

I’ll admit, the fact the store was closed for a private party should have been sign enough to leave.  However, the owner was gracious and invited us in – asking what we were looking for.  The exchange went something like this:

Owner:  What can I help you find?

Me:  Well, I’m looking for a bottle of sweet vermouth.

Owner:  Great, I have plenty of vermouths.  This one is really great! [Proceeds to hold up a bottle of Dolin Dry Vermouth]

Me:  Oh, no, not that one, I’m looking for a sweet one.

Owner:  [Looking confused] Oh yeah, it’s sweet!  It’s delicious.

Me:  No, no.  The sweet vermouth, it goes in a Manhattan.

Owner:  Oh! That sounds fantastic, what else goes in it!

Me:  Uh… well, there’s bourbon or rye, sweet vermouth, and bitters.  You know sweet vermouth, it’s the red one.

Owner:  Red!  I have this one [holds up a bottle of Lustau Red Vermouth]

Now, the owner was positively delightful, and after some more explaining, told me they could order the Cocchi if I’d like.  The exchange was disarming, in the way that ‘trying to explain something you thought someone might already know’ only can be.  Not wanting to be impolite, but also not knowing precisely how to correct someone with a very deep seated conviction to what they assume is right, is always a challenge.  Yet, we got there in the end, and this bottle of Lustau Red Vermouth came home with me.  Partially because of the awkwardness, but mostly because of the sheer curiosity of trying a new vermouth.

He Was A Bold Man That First Ate An Oyster

In both wine, and cocktails, I firmly believe that you should always be open to new experiences.  There is nothing wrong with favorites, of course, yet exploration can yield true expansion of the mind and palate.  While you could continue to buy nothing but the same old Dolin, Carpano, and Martini, it is worth the time to take a chance from time to time and venture forth into the unknown.  You might even find something delightful.  In this spirit, let’s dive into Lustau Red Vermouth.

Lustau Red Vermouth

Sight:  Clear – borderline hickory – cola in hue. (Contains Caramel Coloring)

Smell:  The nose starts off nutty – with hits of almond and walnut.  Herbal notes quickly come in giving touches of cool climate herbs, floral nuances, and a spicy sort of caramelized sugar.  Elements of fruitiness – like raisins, dates, and prunes are strongly prevalent as a backbone.

Sip:  The palate starts rich and sweet, and then quickly brings in a bright backbone.  Flavors of toasted nuts explode forward bring with them macerated raisins, dried plums, and touches of spice.  The overall mix of fruit and nuttiness is punchy – with quite a strong acid component that keeps it feeling lively.  The herbal notes are somewhat subdued.

Savor:   The ending lingers with a forest floor, black chocolate cake, and almond finish.  Touch of herbal notes and nuts continue long after in a smooth and somewhat sweet ending.

Benefiting from Pedro Ximenez and Amontillado – the nuttiness compliments the preserved fruit well in Lustau Red Vermouth.  The dried fruit flavors are powerful and direct.  Thanks to the acidity it’s well balanced with it’s sweetness.  The caramelized notes give it a slightly more robust and fortified flavor.  It is however, quite low on some of the more herbal components in some Vermouths.

In Cocktails

In a Maker’s Mark Manhattan, the Lustau Red Vermouth adds some notes of dried fruit and touches of nuttiness.  These notes that it adds are quite subdued – and play considerable second fiddle to both the bitters and the whiskey.  In a Negroni – a similar experience occurred – where the vermouth was overshadowed by both the gin and the campari.

…But If You Try Sometimes, You Get What You Need

While I can’t say that Lustau will find a permanent home on my shelf, I find it to be a delightful vermouth to enjoy on it’s own.  Sadly, it lacks the punch to stand up to most classic cocktails, meaning it’s applications in crafting drinks will require more imagination from the drinker.  That said – for delicate drinks or on ice – it’s certainly a delightful choice, and one I’m happy to have experienced.