Calvados is a protected designation within France for apple brandies made within the region conforming to specification. Among the producers is Domaine Dupont, who offers an entry level Calvados at about $40. Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve is a two year aged calvados that features 80% bitter apples and 20% acid apples. It is fermented and after 6 months receives a secondary distillation. The aging occurs in at least 50% new oak. So is it worth the investment?
Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve
Sight: A moderate straw yellow.
Smell: Apples, pears, and notes that range between floral and industrial come through. The nose has a soil like earthiness about it. Touches of overly ripe, pressed apples pull through with a hint of vanilla and a light baked quality.
Sip: The mouthfeel is moderate, leaning into thin at points. Notes of apples pressed for cider, caramel, and touches of oak join in. There are light touches of earthiness that gradually grow, a slight heat.
Savor: The ending is more earthy than anything else, leaving slightly bitter fermenting apple note behind. A slightly tannic end.
I’d be hard pressed to sit for a long period of time enjoying Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve on its own. There’s nothing particularly wrong with it as Calvados goes, providing the old world earth qualities along side a well intentioned spectrum of apple flavors. Notes of vanilla and caramel are glancing and not the lead, but nor are the earthy elements that venture toward medicinal or farm like. Overall, it presents itself well as an expression for something other than sipping.
In Cocktails
In a Jack Rose, the fermented apple notes come to the surface and amplify the caramel and oaky notes. The lemon drags more of the earthiness out, only to cut through it. The sweetness from both Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve and the grenadine result in a wonderful balance elevating both past their original starting point. That said, if you feel the old world farm flavors are noticeable, you’re not going to seem them less here. They do take on a vanilla crème kind of note, but are clearly inclined toward slightly fermenting apple notes.
While the apple element is not overt in most cocktails, it is present. If you try to use this Calvados to drive an apple flavor you’re going to be disappointed. Rather, what it adds is a subtle oaked fruitiness with an earthiness that adds a rustic sort of complexity. Play within these bounds and you’ll find a reasonable Calvados for a reasonable price.
Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve In Review
Domaine Dupont Calvados Fine Reserve is a decent enough bottle at the $40 price point. While it lacks some refinement to enjoy it on it’s own, it’s going to add an old world style to cocktails calling for Calvados without breaking the bank. The experience with in the Jack Rose is convincing enough that it deserves at least a try, as it elevates to a level beyond standard expectations. While I’d still recommend against enjoying it on it’s own, I think you’ll be reasonably satisfied with the quality using it in a cocktail.
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