Although I’ve waxed poetic to friends about the amazing cocktail scene in the Bentonville area of Northwest Arkansas, I’ve yet to actually get around to writing about one of the many fine establishments. Although the first I found was Scotch & Soda, a recent trip to the area turned me on to Onyx Coffee Lab. I have zero doubts that Onyx made me one of the best espressos I’ve ever had in my life. The coffee and style of their spaces is nothing short of amazing. So it was a no brainer to try their speakeasy style cocktail bar upstairs in the Rogers HQ location – The Foreman.
The brainchild of one of Onyx’s chief beverage designer, The Foreman is clad in the same beautiful white marble counters, accented with gold light fixtures, and a large padded leather wall. The natural light spilling through the sunroof accents the simple beauty of the space, and adds a warmth. Behind the bar, you’ll see great ingredients, ranging from Suntory Toki Whiskey to El Dorado 15 to Chartreuse V.E.P. The bartenders are undoubtedly among the more technical in the area, measuring everything in ml, and using clarification and carbonation techniques to elevate their drinks.
In addition to an eclectic and adventurous listing of beers and wines, the cocktail menu is broken down into “Make It New” and “Make It Old”. The idea stems from MAYA – “Most Advanced Yet Acceptable”. The idea comes from Raymond Loewy, a father of industrial design, who believed people were caught between a curiosity about new things and a fear of anything too new. Therefore:
If you want to sell something familiar, make it new. If you want to sell something new, make it familiar.
The concept is echoed across the new and old sections of The Foreman’s menu. The familiar include the Gin and Tonic – elegantly presented in a flute and served with a small amuse – and other greats like the Toki Highball and Paper Plane. It’s hard to emphasize enough how these don’t quite fit the mold that most ‘classic’ cocktails have today. There is a heavy dose of the new run through – with nods to Dave Arnold’s liquid intelligence present in both carbonation headspace in bottles and clarifications.
On the new side of the menu (where I chose to adventure) – the drinks are less predictable – but still founded in norms; like crushed ice in the Coconut or a Nick & Nora with orange peel presentation for the Banana. The Banana is a mix of Plantation rum, banana liqueur, bitters, et al. that is similar to a banana Manhattan in character. While the orange radiates off the lip of the glass, a sip reveals richness and sweetness with just a hint of bitter that balances well. Flavors of muted caramel, banana, and hints of spices and herb notes meld to make an entice drink to keep returning to.
To follow up, I had to make the difficult choice between the Walnut (a drink in the vein of a cobbler) and the Coconut – which the head bartender described as, “a fat-washed mezcal snow cone.”
Sold.
The presentation on the snowcone features a strong nod to tiki with a healthy amount of shaved ice topped with a lime zest. The drink foundation of fat-washed mezcal has a wonderfully creamy texture – almost lanolin like – that presents both a hint of the smokiness of the mezcal but also a delightfully subtle line of coconut and a hint of vanilla. It’s not an overtly sweet drink, and bends more into the floral-smokey end of the spectrum.
The presentation and the flavors of the drinks were all solidly on point, and although they’ve only been open for a few months, they’re clearly well on their way to making amazing and technically savvy drinks.
If I have one complaint to register – it is the menu itself. While the menu is elegantly chosen and beautifully designed graphically, it is light on information. The new drinks are a guessing game of liquors, and the systems used are not immediately apparent. If you happen to be at the bar, and there’s time to ask the very cordial and warm staff, then this isn’t an impediment. I’d have to have to guess while the bar was busy on a Friday or Saturday night.
That said, the Bentonville / Rogers / Northwest Arkansas is home to a cocktail scene on the rise. If you happen to fancy an unreal cup of coffee, or want to try a cocktail off the beaten path, then head over to The Foreman / Onyx Coffee Lab in downtown Rogers. You’ll find something familiar yet new to indulge both your palate and your imagination.
The Foreman
101 E. Walnut St
Rogers, AR 72756
(479) 633-7357